Your choice of shoe for black tie is not a decision to be taken lightly, forming the foundation on which of which your outfit is built. Choosing the right black tie footwear will elevate your black tie outfit. A poor choice of shoe can have disastrous effects for both your get-up and repute.

The defining characteristic of formal footwear is minimalism. Every effort should be made to select a shoe stripped of any detail that might detract. For this reason, formal shoes have traditionally been slipper-like. As with many of the black tie staples, due diligence must be taken to separate the formal, evening shoe from its daytime sibling.

From black tie’s inception until the 1950’s, patent leather shoes were preferred choice of black tie footwear. The highly glossy appearance of the leather was intended to complement the rest of the dinner suit’s silk facings and details. These days the options have really opened up, but that doesn’t mean you can get away with being sloppy with your shoe choice; remember, it’s the shoes that attract the attention of passers-by on the pavement more than any other single part of an outfit.

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Opera Pump

The opera pump is a refined, delicate shoe with a history dating back to the 18th century, when men wore it to formal events with knee breaches and silk stockings. Made almost invariably of black patent leather, it is an extremely traditional choice for black tie—so traditional in fact that these days it’s unusual, and therefore attention grabbing. We like it for its old-world elegance and aristocratic air, and the clarity with which it signals that it is intended for indoor use only.

The pump is traditionally decorated with a grosgrain bow to complement the refined minimalism of your overall black-tie ensemble and contrast the black patent leather. The placement of the bow works to obscure much of the shoe’s vamp and create the illusion of a smaller foot. Opera pumps feature grosgrain bows, rather than silk satin bows, as it offsets the high sheen of the patent leather upper.

• Opera Pumps, Bespoke by Efe Laborde
• Black Velvet Opera Pumps by Gaziano & Girling
•  Opera Pumps by Bowhill & Elliot

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Oxford Shoes

Oxford’s became acceptable black tie footwear for formal events later than patent-leather pumps and slipper. However, a black Oxford now represents the no-nonsense, low-frills option for black tie. Give the toe cap a good mirror shine, which will indicate the extent of your seriousness to the event you attend.

• Black Oxfords by Gaziano & Girling

Wholecut Shoes

Cut from a single piece of calfskin, the Wholecut is a great choice for black tie. It’s sleek, seamless appearance fits perfectly with the understated effect of the rest of your black tie outfit. Being a touch too sleek for daywear, the wholecut looks purpose-made for the evening. Rock them in well-polished calfskin for a more temperate look, or patent leather for a stand-out, uber-traditional one.

• Patent Wholecut Shoes by Gaziano & Girling

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Statement Shoes

We love making a statement with our shoes, especially with opera pumps crafted from unexpected fabrics like leopard-print silk or seafoam green moiré. Did you know we also provide a made-to-order opera pump service for our customers?

• Silk Leopard Print Opera Pumps by la Bowtique
• Silk Moire Opera Pumps by la Bowtique

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