Pitti Fits from Florence during Pitti Uomo 110 – featuring new bow ties and black tie tailoring. What Mickael wore during our whistle stop tour of Florence. We had a great time in Pitti back in June, catching up with wholesale customers and industry friends. Mickael took the opportunity test drive some of our new bow tie styles, alongside some of our black tie tailoring.
Day 1
For the first day in Florence, Mickael opted for our new Medium Classic Unlined Bow Tie, proof that sometimes less really is more. Its unlined construction produces a smaller, softer knot, allowing the wings to stretch a little further. It was accompanied by our classic five-pleat cummerbund, because no gentleman should venture into the Florentine sun with his waistband exposed.
The jacket was a single-breasted oyster bamboo dinner jacket with a shawl collar, made by la Bowtique, paired with dark brown dinner trousers cut from Fox Flannel cloth. A silk voile evening shirt by la Bowtique kept things suitably light for the Tuscan heat, while brown silk socks disappeared elegantly into a pair of Bowhill & Elliott opera pumps. The finishing touches came courtesy of a pair of vintage Japanese Kata sunglasses and a vintage Gruen Scallop watch, because if Pitti has taught us anything, it’s that the details are never really details.
Day 2
For the second day, Mickael went in the opposite direction, choosing our Small Batwing Unlined Bow Tie in midnight satin. Smaller than his usual preference, it proved that restraint can be every bit as striking. As always, it was paired with our traditional five-pleat cummerbund, because some things simply don’t need reinventing.
The dinner jacket was a single-breasted shawl-collar model cut from the new Golden Fox bunch made by la Bowtique, chosen specifically to remain comfortable under the relentless Florentine sun. Beneath it sat a silk evening shirt made from a particularly special off-white silk satin, offering just enough lustre without stealing the spotlight. Midnight blue silk socks led into a pair of Bowhill & Elliott opera pumps, reminding us that black tie is often at its most interesting when the details whisper.
Day 3
For the third and final day, Mickael embraced the opposite end of the spectrum with our brand new Angel Bow Tie, big, bold and unapologetically theatrical. Inspired by the legendary Angel Ramos, it is a shape with plenty of presence, paired here with our four-pleat round cummerbund to echo the generous proportions of the bow.
The dinner jacket, made by la Bowtique, was a single-breasted peak-lapel model cut from a new Maison Hellard linen and wool fresco cloth. Full of texture, wonderfully breathable and brimming with character, it felt perfectly at home in the Florentine heat. Another off-white silk evening shirt kept the palette understated, while black silk socks disappeared into the familiar silhouette of Bowhill & Elliott opera pumps.
This year’s wardrobe was defined less by peacocking and more by tradition. It was a chance to experiment with new cuts, fresh fabrics and subtle proportions, while returning to the principles that make black tie endure. Because, for all the temptation to embellish, black tie has always been at its most compelling when it embraces simplicity.
